There are a number of challenging aspects of making great gloves. At the top of the list is correct fit.
In fact, fit is the biggest consumer complaint when it comes to gloves. To demonstrate, here’s a recent consumer letter that is absolutely typical:
So you see, we aren’t kidding when we say that a lot of glove manufacturers are getting fit wrong, at least for the North American market.
6 Key Factors For Perfect Fit
From a glove manufacturing point of view, here are the main culprits when it comes to poor fit, and how to fix them:
- Dies that may be less than perfect
- Mismatched patterns between shell and lining.
- Inaccurate size grading.
- Adjustments based on inaccurate fit models.
- Pattern allowance based on stretch and non-stretch shell materials
- Incorrect or inconsistent seam depth
Let’s take a closer look at each of these areas, to ensure that your finished gloves “fit like a glove”.
- If the glove is lined, check fit of the lining by itself (without the shell). It should have correct finger lengths, thumb position and overall length. The fit to width should be slightly loose. This is necessary to keep the lining from clinging to your hand and slipping against the shell.
- The shell pattern must be measured accurately around the lining and insulation package. For example, if the lining pattern is 10 cm wide, and the lining package is 1 cm thick, the shell pattern should be 10 cm + 1 cm insulation allowance + .5 cm seam allowance = 11.5 cm.
3. Size/Grading rules of thumb (no pun intended) for sizing S,M,L, and XL:
- Each finger and thumb increases/ decreases 3 mm in length with each consecutive size
- The pattern width increases/decreases 3 mm with each consecutive size.
- The distance between the thumb and finger increases/decreases 1 mm with each consecutive size. This measurement is called the “bate”.
- The distance between the thumb and the wrist increases/decreases 3 mm with each size. This is called the “top”.
- Check out the Masley fit model system, which addresses common fit issues with traditional glove sizing and hand measuring systems.
To correct fit problems based on inaccurate fit models, identify good fit model candidates for each size.
- Find more than one individual per size.
- Trace an outline of the hand on tracing paper or scan and print on clear acetate.
- Compare fit model outlines. Overlay the outlines with the index and middle finger crotch as the common point.
- The outlines should all be fairly symmetrical.
5. Select patterns based on the stretch properties of the shell material.
A pattern on a stretch material should be narrower than a pattern for a non-stretch material. The amount depends on the degree of elasticity.
6. Seam depth is critical.
A normal seam depth is 3 mm, +/- 1 mm. The seam depth can vary depending on:
- The width of the sewing machine foot.
- The individual sewer’s skill and factory Q/C.
- Sewing guides attached to the machines can improve seam depth consistency
Achieving the Right Glove Fit: An Art, Not A Science
Making gloves that fit well should be a given ... but judging by the consumer letters and reviews we see, that really isn't the case.
Unfortunately, by the time your realize that you have a problem with fit, it's too late -- your sales are lackluster, and your customers are dissatisfied.
The way we see it, making top quality gloves is like making a great wine or painting -- there's more to it than meets the eye. An experienced glove maker’s judgment makes all the difference.
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